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Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7,045m autumn 2008

Fixed Departure
06 September 2008

lhakpa_riLhakpa Ri Mountain is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, we should start our expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Than we have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this tract we reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this at this point we may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this we should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead we reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu, Kanchanjunga and are seen.

Than we get a good look of our route to up Lhakpa Ri. From ABC start early in the morning and should go crossing the glacier. There are few crevasses until we reach at the very food of the slope leading to us the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 -30 degrees, so way to climb in not so hard but the vertical way is very long. We have use mail rope with group of 4-6 climbers per rope. Following way of the North ridge on the other side we see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. Same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From of the Lhakpa Ri, the very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side.

Entry: ZHANGMU
Exit: LHASA

Itinerary:
13 April 2008 Day 01 Arrivals in Kathmandu transfer to hotel.
14 April 2008 Day 02 Rest days preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
15 April 2008 Day 03 Final preparation for Lhakpa Ri expedition
16 April 2008 Day 04 Drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu
17 April 2008 Day 05 Drive from Zhangmu to Nyalam
18 April 2008 Day 06 Drive from Nyalam to Tingri
19 April 2008 Day 07 Rest days at Tingri for acclimatization
20 April 2008 Day 08 Drive from Tingri to Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
21 April 2008 Day 09 Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
22 April 2008 Day 10 Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle Camp
23 April 2008 Day 11 Middle Camp to Advance base camp
24 April-10 May 2008 Day 12-24 Climbing period of Lhakpa Ri
11 May 2008 Day 25 Drive from Base camp to Shigatse
12 May 2008 Day 26 Drive from Shigatse to Gyantse
13 May 2008 Day 26 Drive from Gyantse to Lhasa
14 May 2008 Day 27 Rest days at Lhasa
15 May 2008 Day 28 Rest days at Lhasa
16 May 2008 Day 29 Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu
17 May 2008 Day 30 Rest days at Kathmandu
18 May 2008 Day 31 Departure your destination

Cost: Group joining basis ABC service
1 persons Euro 5,9145.00 per person 
2-3 persons Euro 4,550.00 per person 
4-8 persons Euro 3,836.00 per person 
8-12 persons Euro 3,640.00 per person
13 or more Euro 3,545.00 per person

Cost includes:

  • 5 nights 3 star standard hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
  • Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
  • Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
  • Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam,Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
  • Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
  • Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
  • Per person's (50 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to Advanced Base
  • Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
  • Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
  • Peak permit for Lhakpa Ri.
  • Tibet Visa & Travel permit
  • Liaison officer & Interpreter
  • Nepalese crew' insurance
  • ABC-Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator
  • Satellite phone (Pay call)
Cost excludes:
  • Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • International departure tax.
  • Personal Expenses.
  • Medical and rescue insurance.
  • Personal Climbing equipment.
  • Bar bills & Beverage.
  • Rescue Jeep Euro 482.00
  • Medicine and first aid expenses
  • Garbage Deposit Euro 344.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
  • Walkie-Talkie.
  • Extra yak, Per Yak's Euro 69.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.  
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters Euro 310.00
Mask & Regular Euro 276.00
Satellite phone Euro 482.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit Euro 3,440.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep Euro 2,408.00
Rescue Jeep Euro 482.00 Per Jeep
 
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