It is over forty years since the first ascent of Everest, the world's highest mountain. Such desecration and disregard for Everest was sadly inevitable. In order to conquer this peak, man has felt moved to disarm it, trussing it up in tens of kilometers of fixed rope. But many now consider such a siege style outdated and unacceptable. The emphasis among modern mountaineers visiting peaks of any size is not to reduce the mountain in this way but instead to raise them and climb it in a lightweight, environmentally sensitive manner. Everest has witnessed every phase of the development of Himalayan mountaineering. That is not remarkable, but the scale of the achievements is. Its history is known well enough seven determined efforts in the twenties and thirties reaching over 8500m on the North ridge with a minimum of technological aids the first proven ascent Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld in 1953 from Nepal. All these ascents were made in August or early September, in short spells of settled weather at the end of the monsoon season. It is usually warmer at this time of year and there is more snow too, which in good condition reduces the technical difficulty of the climbing and the risk of stone fall. The north ridge notoriously exposed to winds but further right on the face in the lee of the west ridge.
Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Ramdung "Go" Treks and Expedition (P) Ltd. in the airport and transfer to you hotel. Next day, we have introduction section with other climbing members & expedition crews. Then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for the Everest Expedition. On day 3, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to Friendship Bridge through Arniko Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us. The expedition gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4 wheel drive. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nyalam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization. Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two (2) nights acclimatizing. Then we drive from Tingri to Base camp 5400m along rough way with jerking and bouncing through grassy plain leading up to Everest Base Camp, which is also called Tibet side base camp. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side.
Entry & Exit: ZHANGMU
Itinerary:
26 March 2009 Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu transfer to hotel
27 March 2009 Day 02 Rest day at Kathmandu
28 March 2009 Day 03 Final preparation
29 March 2009 Day 04 Drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu
30 March 2009 Day 05 Rest day at Zhangmu to Naylam
31 March 2009 Day 06 Naylam for acclimatized Drive from
01 April 2009 Day 07 Drive from Naylam to Tingri
02 April 2009 Day 08 Rest day at Tingri for acclimatized
03 April 2009 Day 09 Drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp
04 April 2009 Day 10 Chinese Base Camp
05 April 2009 Day 11 Chinese Base Camp
06 April 2009 Day 12 Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp load carry by Yaks
07 April 2009 Day 13 Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m.
08 April-09 May 2009 Day 14-45 Climbing Period of Everest 8848m.
10 May 2009 Day 46 ABC to Base Camp
11 May 2009 Day 47 Drive from Base camp to Zhanmu
12 May 2009 Day 48 Drive Border exit and drive to Kathmandu.
13 May 2009 Day 49 Rest day at Kathmandu
14 May 2009 Day 50 Departure your destination
Cost: Group join permit (full board upto Top)
Person: Euro 16,972.00 (Minimum 2 Per person for Guided full board upto Top)
Person: Euro 16,059.00 (Minimum 4 Per person for Guided full board upto Top)
Person: Euro 15,508.00 (Minimum 6 Per person for Guided full board upto Top)
Cost includes:
- 5 night’s hotel in Kathmandu stander 3 star hotel with bed & breakfast
- Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
- Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
- Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (bed- breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
- Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
- 2 climber - 1 climbing Sherpa
- 1 Single climber - 1 climber Sherpa
- 4 high tents North Face or same quality - Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Camp 4
- Single climber -3 high tents North Face or same quality - Cam1, C2, C3, C4
- 2 Oxygen (8 litters) bottle for summit, Mask & regulator
- Climbing food, cooking gas, stove, cooking equipment
- Tents for climbing Sherpa Guide (Camp 1, 2, 3,4)
- Custom clearance for expedition's cargo
- Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
- Per person's (80 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from BC- ABC
- Per person's (50 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC- BC
- Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (5 Days)
- Peak permit for Everest 8848m.
- Tibet Visa & Travel permit
- Liaison officer & Interpreter
- Nepalese crew' insurance
- ABC - Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
- Satellite phone (Pay call).
Cost excludes:
- Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
- Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
- International departure tax.
- Personal Expenses.
- Medical and rescue insurance.
- Personal Climbing equipment.
- Bar bills & Beverage.
- Rescue Jeep Euro 482.00
- Medicine and first aid expenses
- Garbage Deposit Euro 344.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
- Walkie-Talkie.
- Extra yak, Per Yak's Euro 69.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters Euro 310.00
Mask & Regular Euro 276.00
Satellite phone Euro 482.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit Euro 3,440.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep Euro 2,408.00
Rescue Jeep Euro 482.00 Per Jeep |