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Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7045m

Lhakpa Ri Mountain is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu-Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, we should start our expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Than we have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this tract we reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this at this point we may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this we should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead we reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu, Kanchanjunga and are seen. Than we get a good look of our route to up Lhakpa Ri. From ABC start early in the morning and should go crossing the glacier. There are few crevasses until we reach at the very food of the slope leading to us the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 -30 degrees, so way to climb in not so hard but the vertical way is very long. We have use mail rope with group of 4-6 climbers per rope. Following way of the North ridge on the other side we see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. Same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From of the Lhakpa Ri, the very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side

Lhakpa Ri expedition Itinerary
MAXIMUM: 35 Days
ENTRY: ZHANGMU
EXIT: LHASA
FIXED DEPARTURE: 18th September 2010
  21st August 2010
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 02 Document apply for Tibet permit and Tibet visa
Day 03 Preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
Day 04 Final preparations for Cho-Oyu expedition
Day 05 Drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu 2300m
Day 06 Drive from Zhangmu to Nyalam (2,750m)
Day 07 Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization
Day 08 Drive from Nyalam to Tingri 4340m
Day 09 Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization
Day 10 Drive from Tingri to Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 11 Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle camp
Day 12 Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp
Day 13-24 Climbing Period for Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7045m
Day 25 Prepare for return to Kathmandu
Day 26 Base Camp to Tingri
Day 27 Tingri to Shegar
Day 28 Shegar to Shigatse
Day 29 Shigatse to Gyantse
Day 30 Gyantse to Lhasa
Day 31-32 Lhasa Sight-seeing
Day 33 Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 34 Rest Day at Kathmandu
Day 35 Departure to your next Destination
Cost Includes:
  Kathmandu Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & Drop
  6 nights 3 star standard hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
  Lhakpa Ri Climbing permit fees, Tibet Visa fee, Travel permit and Road Permit.
  Liaison officer and Interpreter
  Transportation ;- Kathmandu - Zhangmu – Chinese Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided by Land cruiser/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
  Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam,Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
  Base Camp to Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 2 person provide North Face or same qualities
  Solar panel at Advance Base Camp for lighting and Charging.
  Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator for Advance Base Camp
  Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews Cook, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
  Dining tent, Toilet tent,  shower tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, Table and Chairs; Cooking Gas, Food, Stove, Cooking Utensils
  Equipment allowances, daily Wages, Insurance, Food for Climbing Sherpa, cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer and Interpreter
  We provide 3 Yak Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from CBC to ABC
  We provide 2 Yak Per person's (35 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to CBC
  We provide 1 Yak for each high altitude Sherpa CBC to ABC to CBC
  We provide 1 Yak for each ABC member
  Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 5).
  Agency Service charge
Cost Excludes:
  Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
  International departure tax.
  Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  Bar bills & Beverage, laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
  Medical and rescue insurance.
  Personal Climbing equipment.
  Medicine and first aid expenses
  Garbage Deposit US$ 500.00 (sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
  Walkie-Talkie
  Extra yak, per Yak's US$ 100.00 will be charge till to 50 kg load.
  Climbing Bonus and summit bonus for climbing sherpa (if you use climbing sherpa)
Extra Service if required:
  Russian oxygen 4 litters US$ 450.00
  Mask & Regular US$ 400.00
  Satellite phone US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
  Film Permit US$ 5,000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
  Duty Jeep US$ 3,500.00
  Rescue Jeep USD 700.00 per Jeep
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We are affiliated with Government of Nepal, Nepal Tourism Board, Tourism Ministry, Trekking Agencies" Association of Nepal (TAAN), Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP) and Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA).
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